When we think of Aberdeen in architectural terms, we tend to think of the prosperous Georgian granite mansions of Queen’s Road or Union Street’s shops, banks and monuments to commerce and respectability, but there’s a whole other side to the city’s heritage that we often overlook.
The medieval and later splendours of Old Aberdeen often escape us simply because the area is simultaneously part of, yet separate from, the city. If pottering along cobbled streets, peering over garden gates, wandering round medieval cathedrals and one of the oldest UK university buildings or exploring ancient bridges and botanical gardens appeals, then it’s a bit like a city break without needing to leave home!
Old Aberdeen goes back a long way. Starting in Seaton Park, the Tillydrone Motte is a remnant of prehistoric times, with archaeological finds dating back over 4000 years. Head to St. Machar’s Cathedral, where you’ll find a Pictish stone on display, as well as a tranquil oasis under the shady trees and mossy gravestones. Head down The Chanonry, which is a mix of Aberdeen University buildings and private homes, many of which hold listed status.
Mitchell’s Hospital at number 9 was built in 1801 as an alms house or home for the widows and unmarried daughters of ‘decayed gentlemen’. Residents dressed in dark blue, had their own designated wooden bench in the cathedral and lived in dormitories with a communal kitchen and dining hall. In 1965 it was redeveloped in to nine flat for older women before going on the market in 2024 after the estimated repair bill made it impossible for the managing trust to continue or to restore the property. You’ll also find the entrance to the University’s Cruikshank Botanic Gardens, which makes a charming detour.
The area round Old Aberdeen’s Town House has more of a mercantile feel, with most of the buildings developed after the area became a Burgh of Barony in 1489. Several of the buildings have heritage plaques which explain a little about the history and notable occupants.
Over on The Spital, a contender for the city’s least appealing street name, you’ll find St Margaret’s Chapel and Convent at number 17. The convent was founded as a community dedicated to looking after the poor and sick, with the tower providing a home for ‘working class girls’ at the time. The last group of nuns departed around 1999, with the building becoming engulfed by the surrounding trees and bushes.
The grounds of King’s College Chapel is home to a memorial to Bishop Elphinstone, though little remains of the original university buildings with the exception of the chapel itself, the 1525 Round Tower and the Cromwell Tower. When the latter was built in 1661, it contained 24 bedrooms, a cloakroom and a billiard room, suggesting that even then students were easily distracted form their lectures. There are lots of cute cottages tucked away down side streets and half-hidden behind more modern edifices.
Like any other city exploration, the best plan is to choose a sunny day and just wander where the mood takes you, getting lost until you find your way back to one of the landmark buildings. The joy of Old Aberdeen is that there’s something worth looking at every few metres.
