Over the sea to Skye
Skye always seems to feature in the travel plans of visitors who expect to see all of Scotland in three days, because it offers many of the icons of a highland holiday in one neat package. Ancient castles? Brooding mountains? Blood-soaked history? Photogenic wildlife? Distilleries? Cute cafes, craft shops and interesting galleries? Great restaurants and plenty of accommodation options? Skye ticks all the boxes.
At 50 miles long, Skye is the largest of the Inner Hebrides. These days the bridge makes getting there easier, but lacks the romance of a ferry trip. Take the scenic route via Inverness and across to Kyle of Lochalsh, or the more sedate route down through Perthshire and up via Spean Bridge and the lochs of the A87. Either way, you’re looking at five hours or so in the car. If you’d prefer public transport, your best bet is Scottish Citylink buses either via Glasgow or Inverness.
Portree is a great starting point, with lots of interesting little shops and charming colourful harbourside houses. There’s accommodation to suit all tastes, but wherever you decide to stay on Skye, it’s worth booking 3-6 months in advance to get a good selection of properties.
Outside Portree, the island is dotted with villages, each with their own characters and a network of surprisingly busy single track roads. Driving can be a little stressful in the peak summer season with confused campervanners and locals in a hurry.
Skye is very much about the great outdoors. Walkers and climbers will find much to challenge them on the Trotternish Ridge or the dozen Munros in the Cuillins, though there are lots of shorter and flatter walks for the less experienced or less gung-ho types. If you get lucky, you might see soaring White-tailed Sea Eagles, take a boat trip to see playful dolphins and whales, or have a chance encounter with an otter or red deer. You can take a stroll then have a dip in the Fairy Pools, hike to the dramatic Old Man of Storr or visit the Fairy Glen.
There’s plenty for history buffs too, with warring clans, castles, Highland clearances, Jacobites and Bonnie Prince Charlie popping up all over the place. Eilean Donan, the fossilised dinosaur footprints and the Museum of Island Life are all worth a visit, as is the Colbost Crofting Museum.
Foodies with bulging wallets should head for Skye’s collection of restaurants with Michelin stars or mentions. These include Edinbane Lodge, Loch Bay Restaurant, Scorrybreac, Coruisk House and The Three Chimneys, all of which require booking a couple of months in advance, especially in summer.
If your budget is more miniscule than Michelin, then there are some great takeaway options. Pizza in the Skye at Skye Camanadh Social Club in Portree offers amazing wood-fired pizzas, while The Oyster Shed at Carbost may be a little off the beaten track and doesn’t run to any toilets, but it does dish up the freshest seafood and phenomenal fish and chips. The distilleries at Talisker and Torabhaig will slake your thirst for knowledge in their visitor centres, too.
If Skye feels a bit frenetic, then take the 25 minute ferry crossing to Raasay, which boasts rolling hills to native forests and secluded beaches, some unique species, a handmade road, an outdoor centre, and its own distillery. Some people here still observe the Sabbath, so not everything opens on a Sunday.