Fashion forward: Translating catwalk trends for autumn/winter
Fashion designers, we know, are not quite like the rest of us. They live in a world where their cats are millionaires and where sending some poor bloke down a runway dressed from head to foot in rubber and wearing a shoe on his head isn’t considered to be a plea for help.
That’s why some catwalk trends need a little translation before they’re going to cut it in Cults or be considered fashionable in Fraserburgh.
One of the key catwalk trends was based around collaboration with artists. Dior’s Kim Jones worked with Scottish artist Peter Doig, who painted on car coats, hats and anoraks, lending a misty, almost ethereal touch. JW Anderson showed colourful knits, somehow reminiscent of David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust unitard, with massive hallucinogenic floral patterns inspired by artist Joe Brainard. It would take a great deal of confidence to pull this look off successfully. Comme des Garcons’ work with sculptor Willie Cole resulted in voluminous shirts and repurposed objects, such as women’s shoes being worn as hats. The slightly surreal theme continued at Fendi, who roped in Bake Off presenter Noel Fielding to provide illustrations for their knits and coats.
Outside of bright knitwear, most designers stuck with a sombre or natural palette, running from sludgy moss greens, through tweed mixes and gloomy tones of black and grey.
A slew of designers, recognising that home working is reshaping wardrobes and prioritising comfort over formality, took a luxe approach to leisurewear, with Etro showing russet-shaded paisley patterned silk pyjama trousers layered with chunky knits. Prada opted for the onesie, which is probably best kept for Christmas morning, but again, paired it with oversized thick knits in striking patterns.
Indeed, many designers cocooned their models in oversized pieces, perhaps designed to provide insulation from the world. Balenciaga’s suits drowned their models, making them look like toddlers playing dress up in Daddy’s clothes. JW Anderson’s khaki suiting for Loewe had an element of humour while Dries Van Noten’s took this trend to the extreme with oversized extra-wide leather shorts.
Lastly, we saw a lot of sports technical pieces and the return of the country gent vibe at Tods and Hermes, probably the two collections least likely to cause friends to ask if you’re okay. Tweeds, padded and waxed jackets, wellies and all made a strong showing, with traditional flat caps worn backwards. Hermes’ injected playfulness with sneakers in unexpected shades like yellow and pink that gave a freshness, while Watanabe offered an unexpected twist on traditional Fair Isle knits.
So how does this translate into something that wearable but stylish? We’d suggest investing in some chunky knits, with a slouchy feel and in darker shades and looking out for t-shirts featuring the work of modern artists.
Go with layers and traditional country wear labels if you want the look, but
not the price tag.